[img]http://www.repticlic.com/[/img]salut jai un corn snake albinos denviron 1 ans 6 mois je l'ai depuis le 21 aout 2008 et il na fait que 4 mue depuis il mesure environ 50 cm et je me demande si ces normal quil grandice si lentement !

4 mues c'est pas si mal, quoi que la taille des proies que tu lui donne peuvent influencer sa croissance, tu lui donne quoi?

des bébé souris tsé quand yon pas encore de poiil xD

des souri pas de poil c'est des pinky. ché pas combien de pinky tu lui donne mais si c'est une pinky c'est pas asser tu doit voir une bosse quand il ont fini de manger.

ok mais je doit demander quoi a lanimalerie pour un peu plus gros genre parce que sa lui fait pu de bosse mais pas depuis longtemps?

soi des 21 jours ,soit souri adulte, a la groseur de ton serpent moi j'irais avec des adulte

il serais capable des avalé :O yé de la grosseur de mon petit doight XD

c'est surprenant ce qu'il peuvent avaler,moi si j'étais toi j'irais avec une adulte si c'est trop gros pour lui il va la recracher allor tu ira avec les 21 jour

oki ben merci beaucoup sa vas beaucoup m'aider

ca me fais plaisir

Au fait, ce n'est pas un albino mais un snow!

ah xD meme si ya les yeux rouge ?? parce que la place que jlai acheter mon dit que cetait un albinos ya aucune couleur pi ya les yeux rouge

albinos ça signifie qu'il n'a pas de pigmentation noir, mais là le tien n'a pas de noir ni de rouge,

il est donc amel(albinos pas de noir) et anery(pas de rouge) à la fois, se qui donne un corn snake de phase snow

D'accord avec Nir! Par contre, d'après la photo, il ne pourrait peut-être pas manger des adultes, mais peut-être plus des 21 jours que des fuzzys.

Et nodo, vaut mieux grossir la proie tranquillement que de donner trop gros et que le serpent régurgite... Certains serpents mangent moins facilement après avoir régurgités et j'ai déjà vu des serpents tenter de régurgiter sans que ça sorte, ils en sont morts...

ces ce que je vais faire merci et merci pour le renseignement sur la sorte de mon serpent "je" alors c un corn snake snow !

ma revoir mes message quand je les écrit pour ne plus faire d' érreur,les grosseur de souri du plus petit au plus gros, ca va te donner une idée,
pinky
fuzzy
21 jour
adulte

oki merci

un ptit truc pour les grosseur des proies,donne lui un ptit peu plus gros que le plus gros de son corp et non a la groseure de la tete.et gene toi pas pour lui en donner deux.je trouve que cela fait des serpents un peu plus massif,ils ont laire moins maigres.

cest mon avis,les autres sont aussi bonne
a+

merci beaucoup tlm :p c mon premier serpent et malheureusement je connais pas beaucoup de personne qui en on eu xD

moi perso j aime pas donner 2 proie ca fait plus d os a digerer et ces pas l idéal selon moi

En général je trouve que les gens on tendance à trop nourrir leur serpent et beaucoup de reptiles qu'on voit en captivité son légèrement obèse... Ce n'est pas évident de déterminer combien exactement doivent manger nos reptiles étant donné leur métabolisme particulier...

Voici un article qui avait été écrit pas un membre de la société herpétologique de l'Ontario dans le temps où ils avaient une publication (lettre) mensuelle) ...

Je trouve cet article excellent et remplit de bonne info intéressante autant pour les néophyte que les plus expérimenté. désolé pour ceux qui ne lisent pas l'anglais... Peut-être essayez de le passé dans un traducteur sur google...

Citation:

by: Steve Marks It has become apparent that there is a need for more basic herp-related information for not only the young members, but also some of the older people that are new to the hobby. The purpose of this column is to provide some of that common sense information that so often gets forgotten. This column was inspired by a couple of statements in recent articles. Stan Chiras (Reptiles Magazine, April 2000 – Vol. 8 No. 4.) wrote about Diamond Pythons, and stated that there is a very common problem in herpetoculture with feeding herps too much and too often. A Columbus Zoo keeper also reflected on this recently. Growth Rates in Captive Reptiles The proper feeding of captive herps has always been a somewhat controversial subject. A lot of people undoubtedly feed their animals too much. Some people feed their herps way too much! There seems to be a correlation between the ‘fast’ raising of animals and the intensity of the desire of the keeper to breed that particular species. Sometimes, however, it is a case of loving an animal too much, or plain old lack of knowledge. Digestion in reptiles is governed by the temperature surrounding them. In captivity, where we actually provide these temperatures for them, we can actually easily over- or under-feed our animals. If a corn snake, for example, is kept at an average temperature of 85°F, it will digest and metabolise its meals relatively quickly, compared to the same animal being kept at an average temperature of 75°F. Therefore, the size and frequency of meals can be different for members of the same species being kept under slightly different conditions. If in doubt, it is, in my opinion, always better to err on the slim side – not the fat side! Gluttons! There are certain species that are commonly fed as much as they will eat – and it’s simply not right! Just because an animal doesn’t regurgitate a meal, doesn’t mean that it was a successful feeding. It is our responsibility to try our best to duplicate the natural conditions of a given animal, so that that animal may enjoy a long and healthy life. One species that comes to mind immediately is the African Spurred Tortoise, Geochelone sulcata. This animal in particular is instinctively programmed to feed whenever the opportunity arises. In the wild, however, this opportunity doesn’t pop up all that often, and wild sulcatas eat sporadically at best. Therefore feeding these majestic tortoises every day is wrong. It leads to shell deformities (e.g. pyramiding), and abnormally fast growth. Typically, this species takes 10-20 years to reach adult size. In captivity, this is often reached in as little as 4 or 5 years. Snakes in our care are often overfed. The first species that comes to mind is the Burmese Python, Python molurus bivittatus, which is all too often raised on too much food (the ‘get it bigger faster’ mentality), resulting in a “pinhead”. This is a word which describes a snake that has grown too fast for it’s skeleton to keep up with, resulting in a large snake with a proportionately small head. In one extreme case, I saw a 17-month-old python that was over 17 feet long! That animal died at the age of three. But even the beloved colubrid snakes in our care are often overweight. One certain amelanistic corn snake (Elaphe guttata) had actually been fed one mouse per day for five or six years, and was absolutely obese (as thick around as my wrist and 5’ 5’’ [165 cm] long!) when it was given to me to take care of. This animal died at the age of nine. There is a widespread belief that you can’t over feed baby snakes while they are growing rapidly. This is not entirely correct. Young reptiles do grow faster than they do when they get a little older, but it is entirely possible to over feed a young snake, for the reasons described above. A good rule of thumb for many snakes is to monitor the defecation rate. After a snake clears a meal, it’s time for another one. Obviously this doesn’t work for all snake species (especially colubrids), but for more inactive, sedentary snakes, this is an excellent guideline. Snakes should be offered prey items (i.e. rodents) that are approximately equal in girth to the girth of the thickest part of the snake’s body. One or two items may be offered, but the time between meals should be adjusted accordingly. Always err on the side of too long, not too often. Sporadically scheduled feedings seem to be beneficial, too. Even some herp care books and many care articles in magazines describe regimens that are geared for raising herps to adulthood and breeding at an early age, often to the detriment of the animals. This is all too common in our hobby. Breeding size should be attained slowly at a more natural rate. Know that if an animal has been raised at a natural rate, and breeds at an appropriate age, the parent will live longer, and the offspring may be stronger animals. Another common mistake along the same lines is breeding a female animal too often. Depending on the species, they may be naturally geared to breed only once or a few times in their life – and to expect them to breed every year overtaxes their bodies, and shortens their life expectancy. So just how much and how often do you feed a reptile? Naturally it’s not possible to answer this question in a short article. You should always check out good books on the species you are keeping, and you should network with other keepers of the same species, and look at how their animals are doing. Good care books, such as the Herpetocultural Library Series, often recommend feeding regimens for animals at different ages. There are even elements of that breeding, power-feeding attitude in some of those books, so exercise caution. Some things are best learned through experience. But no one says that experience has to be your own. Networking with other keepers of the same species, and looking at their animals, judging if they are heavy or light for their age, etc., and comparing feeding regimens with them can be rewarding for both keepers – and very rewarding for the animals in their care. I’d like to thank several people. Bry Loyst, Grant Ankenman, Tom Mason, Shaun Waite, Allen Hunter and Dominic Clarke have all shared their thoughts with me on this topic, and I probably wouldn’t have thought to write this article if it weren’t for a recent discussion between Bry and myself on Sulcatas.

Intéressant comme article Nir.

pinky, fuzzy, sauteuse, adulte